Nestled within the grandeur of the recently restored Grand Palais, Le Grand Café emerges as Paris’s latest brasserie sensation, aiming to revive the golden era of the Belle Époque with a fresh yet timeless spirit. More than just a place to dine, it’s a celebration of Parisian history, craftsmanship, and hospitality, designed to feel both monumental and intimate. Guided by visionary interior designer Joseph Dirand and operated by the seasoned Malafosse siblings, this new hotspot balances tradition with modern flair—inviting locals and visitors alike to experience the city’s legendary joie de vivre anew.
Reviving Belle Époque Grandeur
Designing a café inside the iconic Grand Palais—a Beaux-Arts masterpiece originally built for the 1900 Universal Exhibition—was no small feat. Joseph Dirand, the celebrated interior designer entrusted with this task, describes the challenge as a “heavy responsibility.” The Grand Palais stands as a symbol of Paris’s early 20th-century confidence, its vast glass and steel structure originally intended as temporary but enduring as a cultural landmark.
Dirand’s main dilemma was how to transform such a monumental, cathedral-like space into an inviting, intimate environment for diners. His solution was a “forest of lights” suspended at table level, evoking the elegance of the Belle Époque while softening the grand scale. The result is a delicate balance: the soaring ceilings maintain their awe-inspiring monumentality, while the warm, low lighting fosters a sense of closeness and comfort.
A Parisian Family’s Culinary Vision
Le Grand Café is run by siblings Gilles and Claire Malafosse, heirs to a long line of Parisian restaurateurs. Their family has owned Le Flandrin in the 16th arrondissement since 1936, a restaurant with roots as a “bar-tabac of the railway station.” Claire left a legal career to join her brother in this new venture, channeling their shared passion for hospitality into creating exceptional dining experiences in stunning settings.
The Malafosses’ expertise extends beyond Paris—they manage acclaimed establishments along the French Riviera and in Courchevel, and Gilles has elevated the quality of museum restaurants, a category often criticized for mediocrity. “In a city of intimate neighborhood eateries, big, fashionable restaurants can feel intimidating,” Dirand remarks. Le Grand Café, however, sidesteps this with warmth and charm, creating a space that welcomes everyone rather than alienating.
The Experience: Food, Ambiance, and Hospitality
Guests enter through a lively bar serving snacks all day, pass the bandstand where soft jazz plays in the evening, and settle into a dining room crowned by an oyster bar and chefs’ tables. The terrace offers one of the city’s best views, overlooking the Champs-Élysées and the Petit Palais. The design incorporates the past while inviting the present, blending heritage and contemporary comfort.
The restaurant’s philosophy extends beyond décor. Gilles Malafosse emphasizes hiring “nice people” rather than seasoned professionals, focusing on warmth and personality. “Training competence is easier than changing someone’s character,” he notes. This approach challenges the sometimes aloof Parisian dining culture, where “the capital of gastronomy” can paradoxically breed snobbery.
A Menu That Honors Tradition and Embraces Modernity
Under the guidance of executive chef Benoît Dargère, Le Grand Café offers a refined take on traditional French cuisine. Fresh ingredients are treated simply, with light sauces that respect the purity of flavors. The menu nods to modern tastes with dishes featuring raw fish and a standout tomato tart—an homage to Mediterranean influences once overlooked in France.
Dargère describes their approach as evolving within the “cuisine bourgeoise” tradition, creating dishes that resonate with both history and innovation. Highlights include salmon with sorrel, an île flottante dessert, and a potato salad reminiscent of “mother’s cooking,” dishes that evoke nostalgia while satisfying contemporary palates.
The Bar: Home-Style Hospitality Meets Expert Craft
The bar at Le Grand Café benefits from the expertise of Colin Field, once named “the world’s greatest bartender” by Forbes. Field’s philosophy is simple yet profound: bartending should feel like entertaining guests at home. Unlike the pushy American style of offering drinks prematurely, Field waits patiently until a guest’s glass is nearly empty before suggesting another, fostering a relaxed and thoughtful atmosphere.
Signature cocktails like the Serendipity—a blend of Calvados Coquerel, clear apple juice, fresh mint, and Moët Impérial Champagne—offer a refined alternative to classic drinks, embodying the Mediterranean spirit with every sip.
A New Chapter for the Grand Palais
After a three-hour meal immersed in impeccable food, drinks, and conversation, the sense of well-being is unmistakable. Le Grand Café manages to capture the essence of Paris—its grandeur, intimacy, and timeless elegance—all in one extraordinary space. While other cities might replicate its style, the unique blend of history, craftsmanship, and Parisian spirit ensures that this experience remains singular.
Gilles and Claire Malafosse remain perfectionists, keenly aware of the smallest details even after the grand opening. Gilles jokes about searching for the “ballet of waiters,” those seamless moments of attentive yet unobtrusive service that define truly great hospitality. To diners, however, the magic of Le Grand Café is already clear—a dazzling new jewel in the crown of Parisian dining.
